Shoe



Sept. 17, 1929. A. RUGGIERO SHOE Filed A ril 4. 1928 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENJ'OR fluii 022 wz'em Y 1 [is ATTORNEY Sept. 17, 1929. A. RUGGIERO SHOE Filed pril 4. 1928 2 Sheets-Sheet INVENTOYR p @SATTQRNEY UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE ANTHONY RUGGIERO, OF ROCHESTER, NEW YORK SHOE Application filed April 4,

My invention relates to a shoe, with reference especially to ladies shoes, and has for its object to provide a shoe possessing maximum wearing qualities and durability, while at the same time being economical to manufacture, of light weight, neat appearance, and

possessing the desirable characteristics of a turned shoe. I

The invention has for a further purpose to eliminate the reversing operation necessary in making a turned shoe, and to secure an upper to a welt or stay which is cut from the outer sole and is secured to said sole in such a way as to insure a close, permanent union between the sole and welt, to prevent loosening of the upper, and also avoid any unevenness or roughness on the interior exposed surfaces of the sole and welt, thus overcoming the objections to prior structures of this general type.

Another purpose of the invention is to attach an upper to the welt in such a way as to permit of a closer and tighter bond between the welt, upper and sole, and also require but a single line of stitching between the sole, upper and welt.

With these and certain other objects and advantages in view, the invention comprehends the structure and arrangement of parts that will be understood from the following description when read in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, the novel features being pointed out in the claims following the description.

In the drawings:

Figure 1 is a cross-section through the sole of a shoe made in accordance with a preferred embodiment of the invention;

Figure 2 is a cross-section through the 1nstep, showing the shank;

Figure 3 is a sectional view showing the manner of initially preparing the sole;

Figure 4 is a cross-section showing the initial operation of securing the upper to the welt on the last,

Figure 5 is a cross-section showing the manner of initially attaching the outer sole to the upper and welt upon the last;

Figure 6 is a plan View of the shank;

Figure 7 is a bottom plan view of the welt welt. which is completely separated from the 1928. Serial No. 267,282.

and upper before the outer sole is attached showing the upper broken away, and

Figure 8 is a bottom plan view of the completed shoe showing the sole broken away and indicating the position of the shank.

Referring more particularlv to the drawings. in which like reference characters refer to the same parts throughout the several views, the sole is prepared by making the usual McKay channel, indicated at 1, extendmg clear to the end of the heel, and a channel is then formed, as designated at 2, by cutting out a strip around the outer edge of the sole.

Following this, the sole is cut away to form therefrom a welt 3, and afford a welt receiving recess, such cut extending from the bot tom of the channel aforementioned inwardly and upwardly to the top of the sole. the extent of such cut determining the width of the sole by the operation just described.

The formation of the channel at the outer edge of the sole and the welt may be in one or two operations and with one or two knives, this part of the procedure being a mechanical detail which forms no essential part of the invention.

The welt being'formed by cutting the sole from a point on its inner surface" downwardly to the bottom of the edge channel is of wedgeshape or tapered cross-section, being thickest at its outer edge and tapering gradually to considerable thinness at its inner edge for a purpose that will appear hereinafter. The welt is cut from the sole as far as the heel of the shoe where a nailed heel seat is used or it may extend clear around the heel where a sewed heel seat is employed.

, After cutting the welt from the sole in the manner described, the opposite loose portions of the welt may be secured together by the anchor piece 5 preferably of fabric such as heavy duck cemented thereto, or other similar means to hold the welt in proper relationship. Cement or glue is then applied to the surface of the welt that lies against the sole, the glue covering the welt from its outer edge to a point intermediate the outer and inner edges, and,leaving a substantial area at the inner part of the welt free from glue.

After gluing, the welt is tacked upon the last 6, as shown in Figure 4, following which the upper 7, to which the lining 8 has already been stitched at 9, is secured to the glued portion of the welt by temporarily tacking it in place. The lining 8 may be moistened or dampened if desired around its edge to cause it to adhere tightly to the glued surface of the welt. It will be observed that the inner edges of the upper and lining, designated at 10, terminate at a point spaced from the inner and outer edges of the welt, thus leaving a substantial surface at the inner portion of the welt free and unobstructed to permit its attachment to the sole.

Following the operation last described, and after theglue between the welt and lining and upper has hardened, the retaining tacks are removed and the exposed edges and surfaces of the welt and upper which are intended to lie adjacent to the sole are sandpapered or otherwise treated to remove any unevenness, and give a smooth, bevelled surface to engage the recess in the sole formed by cutting out the welt.

When the welt and upper are thus ready for affixing to the'sole, a coat of cement is applied over the entire exposed surface of the welt and the adjacent portion of the upper which lies against the sole, and cement is similarly applied in the recess in the sole. The sole is then positioned upon the upper and welt, which are on the last, in the manner shown in Figure 5, suitable pressure means being applied to force the sole into tight engagement with the welt and upper and to obtain a close bond between these parts, the welt being held tightly to the sole by the action of the cement between the inner thin part of the welt beyond where the upper and lining terminate, and the corresponding porticn of the recess in the sole.

Owing to the tapered form of the welt, when these parts are completely assembled in the manner described, the inner portion of the welt occupies the corresponding part of the recess in the sole from which it was previously removed, and the inside or exposed surface of the welt forms practicallya continuation of the adjacent inside surface of the sole, leaving no rough portions or unevenness to be encountered by the wearer of the shoe, while the" inner exposed surface of the sole and welt that engages the foot is substantially flat.

The final operation consists in stitching together the welt, lining, upper, and sole, such a line of stitching being at the outer part of the welt and extending through the channel 1, as indicated in Figure 1. a

A shank of stiff leather is employed, as designated in Figure 6, in which 15 is the leather portion and 16 a metal stiffener. Ce-

.ment is applied to a substantial part of the surface of the shank, as indicated at 17, and

maasee this cemented surface is aflixed to the inner face of the sole and welt and secured by suitable pressure while the rear part of the shank is nailed to the heel, the finished structure appearing as shown in Figure 2, with the,

metal stiffener between the shank and sole.

From the above, it will be seen that the structure described has all the characteristics of a turned shoe, and possesses the additional advantages of requiring no turning operation during manufacture while also permitting the use of the McKay type of stitching, all of which lends to a flexible and light weight, but strong and durable shoe.

While I have described my invention with reference to a particular structure, it is not confinedtothe details herein disclosed or the precise form or procedure set forth, and this application is intended to cover any such modifications or changes as come within the intent of the improvements or the scope of the following claims.

I claim:

1. The combination with a sole having a welt receiving recess formed by cutting a welt therefrom, of a welt complemental to said recess, an upper attached to the welt with the inner edge of the upper spaced substantially outwardly from the inner edge of the welt, a layer of cement between the sole and the inner portion of the welt and the upper, and a line of stitching attaching the oulter part of the welt and the upper to the so e.

2. The combination with a sole having a welt receiving recess formed by cutting a welt therefrom, of a welt complemental to said recess, the welt being of tapered crosssection and thickest at its outer edge and thin at its inner edge, an upper and lining arranged between the sole and welt, the inner edges of the upper and lining coinciding and located in spaced relation outwardly from the inner edge of the welt, a line of stitching securing the upper and lining together independently of the sole and welt, a layer of cement attaching the sole to the inner part of the welt, and a major line of stitching at taching the outer part of the welt to the upper and sole.

3. The combination with a sole having a welt receiving recess formed by cutting a welt therefrom, of a welt complemental to said recess, the welt being of tapered crosssection and thickest at its outer edge and thin at its inner edge and extending to the heel of the shoe,-an upper located between the sole and welt with its edge spaced substantially from the edges of the welt, a layer of cement between the inner part of the recess in the sole and the surface of the welt lying inwardlyof the upper, a line of stitching extending through the sole, upper and welt, a shank of stiff leather cemented to the welt and sole, and a metal stiffener located between the shank and the welt and sole.

4. The combination with a sole having a welt receiving recess formed by cutting a welt therefrom, of a welt complemental to said recess, the welt being of tapered cross-section and thickest at its outer edge and thin at its inner edge and extending to the heel of the shoe. an upper and lining having their edges stitched together and located in spaced rela tion to the edges of the welt so as to leavea substantial art of the welt unobstructed for direct attachment to the sole, a layer of cement between the welt and the lining and upper, a layer of cement between the sole and the inner part of the welt and ad'acent part of the upper, a line of stitching t rough the outer part of the welt, the upper and sole, a shank of stiff leather having a cement connection with the welt and. sole, and a metal stilffener between the shank and welt and so e.

In witness whereof, I have hereunto signed my name.

ANTHONY RUGGIERO. 

